Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent Winter 2020 collection, presented on February 25th in Paris, was a powerful statement. It wasn't a revolution, not a complete departure from the house's established aesthetic, but rather a considered evolution, a refinement of the codes that define Saint Laurent. This wasn't about flashy trends; it was about a quiet confidence, a sophisticated darkness that resonated deeply with the brand's legacy while subtly pushing its boundaries into the new decade. The show, a masterclass in presentation, underscored the collection's inherent strength, solidifying its place as a significant moment in the ongoing narrative of Saint Laurent's design evolution under Vaccarello.
The collection, officially categorized as Saint Laurent Fall 2020 Ready-to-Wear and part of the Women's Winter 24 seasonal offerings (a common practice in the fashion industry to align collections with the following year's seasons), was a study in contrasts. Vaccarello, known for his sharp tailoring and his ability to translate raw energy into high fashion, delivered a collection that was both undeniably glamorous and surprisingly understated. The show notes, while sparse, hinted at a revisiting of Saint Laurent's well-behaved side, a fascinating juxtaposition considering the brand's history of rebellious chic. This "well-behaved" aspect wasn't about demureness; instead, it suggested a refined control, a deliberate restraint that amplified the impact of the key pieces.
The color palette was predominantly dark. Black, naturally, reigned supreme, a foundational element woven throughout the collection. Deep blues, rich burgundies, and occasional pops of emerald green provided subtle counterpoints to the prevailing darkness, creating an atmosphere of sophisticated mystery. The absence of overly bright or pastel colors was a deliberate choice, emphasizing the collection's inherent gravitas. This wasn't a collection designed for playful sunshine; it was crafted for the shadowy allure of the winter months, for nights spent in dimly lit bars and exclusive gatherings.
The silhouettes were sharp and assertive. Vaccarello’s signature tailoring was evident in the impeccably constructed jackets, sharp-shouldered blazers, and perfectly fitted trousers. These pieces, often in luxurious fabrics like leather and velvet, projected an aura of power and confidence. The tailoring wasn't merely about form-fitting; it was about creating a dialogue between the body and the garment, a conversation whispered in the language of impeccable craftsmanship. The structured pieces were frequently paired with fluid, flowing skirts and dresses, creating a balance between rigidity and fluidity, strength and grace. This interplay of opposing elements was a recurring theme throughout the entire show, adding layers of complexity to the overall aesthetic.
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